I realize I've been posting a lot of my own poetry, but I think it's time to appreciate the poetry of my rather remarkable new, very old city.
I could go on and on listing reasons why I love York-I've considered adapting one of my I <3 New York t-shirts by crossing out the "New"-but I'll try to narrow my selection to a top 10 highlights for now.
1. The Markets-
When I was a little girl I used to play on my own in the field outside my house and pretend that I was collecting all sorts of treasures-dandelions, blackberries, queen anne's lace, grape leaves-to take to market (embodied by the treehouse my big brother and I shared) and sell. Now I'm living in a place where open air markets actually happen every day. No matter the day of the week or weekend there is undoubtedly some festival going on featuring international vendors calling out on the streets a la Christina Rosetti's Goblin Market
"Come buy our orchard fruits,
Come buy, come buy:
Apples and quinces,
Lemons and oranges,
Plump unpecked cherries-
Melons and raspberries,
Bloom-down-cheeked peaches,
Swart-headed mulberries,
Wild free-born cranberries,
Crab-apples, dewberries,
Pine-apples, blackberries,
Apricots, strawberries--
All ripe together
In summer weather--
Morns that pass by,
Fair eves that fly;
Come buy, come buy;
Our grapes fresh from the vine,
Pomegranates full and fine,
Dates and sharp bullaces,
Rare pears and greengages,
Damsons and bilberries,
Taste them and try:
Currants and gooseberries,
Bright-fire-like barberries,
Figs to fill your mouth,
Citrons from the South,
Sweet to tongue and sound to eye,
Come buy, come buy."
Fortunately, these olives, cheeses, and breads have not poisoned me into near madness, as intoxicating as they may be. They do, however, provide at least fifty reasons-one for each vendor-to take the long, healthy walk into city centre as often as I'm able.
2. The Noah's Ark Bouncy House-
and other assorted Christ(mas) themed amusement rides set up just past the market never fail to give me a giggle. I'm tempted to stop and take a picture nearly every time I pass by, simply because it is incredibly cute. There are loads of tiny children running about with adorable British voices (North Yorkshire accents at that) and occasionally calling out "Mummy" to the bundled up moms waiting patiently nearby.
3. The Train Station-
I love how connected I feel to the world here. I have, and have always had, insatiable wanderlust, but in York it is not a burden to bear any more. The train station (one of the locations featured as Platform 9 3/4 in the Harry Potter films), is beautifully close to the University, it's easy to navigate, and I've had delightful conversations with taxi drivers each time I've had to hire a cab there. I tend to start by pointing out to my driver that they are driving on the wrong side of the road...it never fails to get a chuckle and ease any tension that might exist due to the give-away that is my funny, foreign accent. With a regular schedule of research and rehearsals I have not traveled as extensively yet as I might've hoped to, but it has been two months to the day now since I flew into Manchester from Boston, and I've made getaways to London and Scotland. Still, I love knowing the option exists and is so readily accessible should I feel the need to hop on a train, or plane, and go-yet more proof that this place and I were destined to be together, even if only for a little while.
4. The Smell-
Whenever I travel I tend to unintentionally leave with a particularly nice souvenir-the memory of that place's smell. Whenever I go home I know that my house in Maine will smell like cinnamon and Snuggle fabric softener, and my Nana's house in New York smells like decades of warm, comforting meals, and newspaper. When I first arrived in York I wasn't sure what this place's distinct smell was, but then a breeze came through, and I discovered that the air here smells sweet and rich with the smell of chocolate from its hidden factories, especially on a breezy day. It's as if the city's determined to be fairytale worthy, and so, in addition to the rest of its magic, it decides to smell like chocolate too. Fact: I don't like chocolate. But, I do like the smell of it, even more so now that I smell brownies in the air every day.
5. The Nuns-
There is an abbey here, behind a thick, stone wall, in which a group of nuns stay, live, and never come outside of the gates. I'm told once they go in they stay forever inside and spend their days praying for the city and its inhabitants. I find it so comforting knowing that they're there. Their prayers are most welcome, and every once in a while I spare a prayer for them too.
6. Betty's-
is a perfect tea house, designed to replicate the interior of a luxury cruise ship. "In 1936 the founder of Bettys, Frederick Belmont, travelled on the maiden voyage of the Queen Mary. He was so enthralled by the splendour of the ship that he commissioned the Queen Mary’s designers and craftsmen to turn a dilapidated furniture store into his most sophisticated branch yet – an elegant café in the land-locked location of St Helen’s Square. Today, as you sit in Bettys surrounded by huge curved windows, elegant wood panelling and ornate mirrors, you can almost imagine yourself aboard a luxury liner." Taking tea at any time of the day is a luxury I've quickly become adjusted to. In the middle of choir rehearsals everyone inevitably stops for a tea/coffee/biscuit break at least once. It's perfect. Not in the mood for a cuppa? That's when Betty's mulled wine, served hot and spicy, comes into addictive play.
7. Christmas-
I LOVE Christmas, and it's everywhere in York. It's been everywhere since before Halloween. More on this another time, as we get closer to the Holidays. It really deserves a post entirely its own. For now let it suffice to say that York is Christmas magic incarnate.
8. The Minster-
I was 13 years old when York Minster came into my life for the first time. Sitting in my 7th grade history class one of my most influential teachers of ever showed us slides of cathedrals and artwork around the world in order to demonstrate architectural development over time. From that moment on I knew I had to sing here someday. Evensong is sung every night, and I go as often as I can get there. I'm learning how to be spiritually fulfilled by listening, rather than actively singing, and it's been a surprisingly challenging transition for me. To not be the singer, but to be the one internalizing the intensely beautiful has forced me to quiet myself long enough to listen, and hear, and know. I do get to sing there this weekend for a carol service, and I know I will be meditating a lot on what it was like to be 13 years old, wondering if one day, maybe...and now to be nearly 23 years old, processing at long last into the nave, carrying a lantern in my hands, and singing carols by candlelight into this massive, extraordinary space...
9. Barbakan-
is my favorite restaurant in York, and so far it's my little secret, until now of course. I dare any of you to come try it with me...Barbakan is a tiny, Polish cafe, which I happened upon with friends on the walk into city centre from Uni, and have not stopped going to since. They offer amazing Eastern European cuisine for extraordinarily reasonable prices. The exchange rate is awful on this side of the pond, so I'm hyper-conscious of these things, but I never feel guilty when I indulge at Barbakan, in part because the food and atmosphere are so fulfilling, comforting, and wonderful, but also because it really is inexpensive! It's small, warm, cozy, and it's the yummiest food I've accidentally found in the whole, wide world.
10. The Night Life-
is bangin'. There are, I admit, more vibrant, modern cities nearby, like Leeds, Manchester, and even London, but I have an amazing time out every time I go out in York. I have a fantastic group of friends who make up a beautifully international crew, and when we pair up with cheap, intense drinks, good music, and a dance floor or two, our nights-into-mornings on the town are always epic. There is a huge demand for atmospheres in which we can lay aside research at the end of a long week and escape into wondrous postgraduate oblivion, and the city answers the call with just enough venues to keep us drinking and dancing the nights happily away. My personal favorites thus far: Fibbers, The Duchess, Willow (so trashy and so good), & Vudu Lounge. One of these nights I'll get to Club Salvation, a Medieval church-turned pop night club.