Edinburgh

Edinburgh
A quick stop at the Angel of the North on the way to wintery Edinburgh, November, 2010

Sunday, 22 November 2015

Seeing Eye-to-Eye

There are so many voices engaging in the arguments that have erupted around the refugee crisis, that it is probable that mine will just be another lost in the cacophony, but nonetheless I’d like to share my personal experience of the refugee situation, particularly for those back home who may feel that it is far away and intangible, when for me, the crisis struck ‘home’ thanks to a simple wrong turn on a highway a few months ago.

I started this blog in 2010, to reflect on and share my personal experiences of living abroad, never expecting, initially, that I’d come to move here permanently. But as life and love have come to pass, England has become my newest home, and I’ve found my forever home in my husband. Settling in the UK has meant settling in one extension of Europe, joining a community of the world with wonderfully - often problematic – generous and open borders. Those borders have fuelled and fed my husband’s wanderlust for his whole life, and when we first became friends, we both learned very quickly that we’d found someone we could share our mutual love of adventuring with. In the years since, in spite of my visa nightmare, we have made the most of living in Europe, travelling as often as we can whenever we can, whether it’s up to Scotland, or down to the South of France. Our pantry is in a constant state of overflow with as many pastas from Italy, sirops and teas and wines from France, and sweets from Germany as we can manage/afford to collect and bring home from our journeys. But more than any other destination, France is where Andrew and I both love going the most. It has become more than our holiday destination of choice. It’s where we go to regroup, to take a breath after weeks of intense work, to remember what it feels like to fall in love all over again, every time. It’s where we hope to live one day, it is where we dream of having a house, converting a barn into our own early music hall, and raising a family. And now it’s also where I first came to experience the refugee crisis first hand.

A perfect start to our day - French pastry
On the eve of my 27th birthday last February, we were having a relaxing night, snuggled up with the cats, enjoying the first or second night of school vacation, and Andrew asked me what I wanted to do for my birthday. The answer was obvious, wasn’t it? I wanted to go to France. <insert pout> We had spent another birthday in a beautiful gite in Normandie, before the visa crisis, and we’d been hoping to be able to go back, but for various reasons – we both had a couple of gigs if I remember right – couldn’t manage the trip this time around. I didn’t mind having a quiet birthday at home, though. I knew we couldn’t fit in a long holiday with the various concerts that we were committed to this time. But, on a whim of sorts, Andrew decided to do a quick google search, and found that the Channel Tunnel was running a 48 hour flash discount offer for the days around and including my birthday - £10 per car for anyone travelling to France and back again in a day. He told me, we both giggled a bit, and then we got serious, and asked each other, ‘omg…are we really gonna do this?!?!’ And we did. We pre-booked our tickets, power napped for the two or so hours we had left, grabbed our passports, hopped in the car, and drove 5 hours to the south of the country to catch our train crossing through the Chunnel. The whole thing was absurd, and wonderful. When we got to the Chunnel, we both passed out for the whole 30 minute crossing. For the first time ever, a guard had to tap on the window of the car to wake us up on the other side. It was about 10.00 in the morning when we made it to France, and we drove to a parking lot, found a spot in the sun, put our chairs back, and fell asleep for a couple more hours. It was the best birthday sleep in of my life. When I woke up I was uncomfortably warm, the Calais sun beating down through the windshield onto my face. It was bliss. We grocery shopped in a super Auchan for hours, we ate perfect French food, we stocked up on our favorite cheeses and wines, etc…wove our way through villages around Dunkerque and Calais, managed to find a woodfired pizza van (always a must!), and finally, slowly made our way back to the port again for our 11pm crossing back to England.
Our wood-fired pizza
 It had been one of the craziest, most exhausting, best birthdays of my life. And then we accidentally missed a turn.


Or maybe made a wrong turn. We’re still not entirely sure what happened, or how we went wrong. Andrew’s French is very good, much better than mine, and he’s a really great driver, even on the right side of the road. But for whatever reason, we both missed the signs, and somehow ended up in the freight line of traffic. Just us in our little car, stuck amongst hundreds of giant 18 wheeler trucks (the English call them lorries) en route to make their trans-European deliveries from all over the world. We just wanted to get home; there was still a five-or-so-hour drive back up north waiting for us on the other side. As soon as we came off the exit ramp, Andrew realized our mistake. On any day before this day, you could’ve asked me what I’d feel if we ever went wrong and ended up somewhere unfamiliar, and I’d have said it would be no big deal, and that we would just have to sit it out until we could turn around and get back to the road and queue where we were meant to be, along with the general public. But after about 30 seconds of sitting in the long line of traffic with those trucks, my understanding of the gravity of the situation in Syria came crashing into being.

Andrew said “I think we should lock the doors” and I quickly complied, as I started realizing there were people surrounding our car. I feel ashamed to admit, actually, that my heart started racing when I first saw the refugees. At first I only noticed a few men, but as time went on, that number grew, and there were several, and then many, and then ultimately there were hundreds. We talked through our options and there was just nothing we could do to get out of this situation. We were hopelessly stuck in the middle of a line of traffic that we were never meant to be in, where French police officers, it turned out, had been battling with desperate refugees for months. The refugees were tapping on windows, climbing onto lorries around us, looking into our car, trying to force their way into the backs of lorries, all darting to and fro, and dodging police in daring and obviously urgent, though ultimately unsuccessful attempts to stow away and make it across to the UK, where they hoped to claim asylum and reach a benefit and health system that they believe could save their (families’) lives. At one point we could see a clear way out, and tried to back the car up the ramp, seeing the hope in reversing all the way back down the road we’d driven, in order to get away from the scene. This was before we were blocked in by more lorries as they arrived in turn. But police just as quickly shook their heads at us, as if to warn, ‘Don’t you dare do it. As soon as you do anything out of the ordinary here, all hell will break loose.’ So we stayed where we were, and watched as the armed police stood in solidarity with one another, in well formed groups of threes, fours, and fives, tall cans of pepper spray at the ready. This, in stark contrast with the refugees, who were dashing from one side of a hill to another, between trucks, across roads, always hunched and trickling or sprinting from one point to the next to evade the police who were there – thank God – to keep the peace, support, and ease the minds of the drivers, I suppose. I sat there in disbelief. Just minutes before, we’d been sitting eating our beautiful pizza, savouring every last bit of drippy egg on the top, not very far up the road from this place. On the other side of a hedge we could make out the rest area for ordinary passengers like us in the distance, where those people who had already passed through security were sitting blissfully unaware of what was going on just out of sight. I’d heard brief mention of the situation in Calais on the news in the weeks before this. There had been a few articles dotted about on the BBC that mentioned that they were struggling to contain the refugees in Calais, and that the French had been asking the UK for help to manage the situation, but other than that, there was not a lot of information yet. It wasn’t like it is now.

In the months since, the media has covered the situation at length, their tone constantly shifting, portraying the governments and countries and refugees themselves in various lights. At first, the UK was not doing enough to support the French, then the UK was saying it was France’s problem – not ours – and then the UK was doing everything it could to support our French neighbours….our French brothers….from these ‘criminals’ who were trying to take advantage of our benefit system…and then the real picture started to emerge, as real pictures started to emerge, of innocent children lying face down dead on beaches, and the free world rallying to rescue lives as refugees began not only to flee, but to flood, and, it seems, overwhelm our countries in their desperation to escape slaughter. And this week the picture is changing yet again. In the wake of the terror attacks in Paris, the language is shifting again. On Friday the 13th, our stomachs turned, we felt sick, and admittedly sat terrified and terribly sad, watching the horror unfold in one of our world’s most remarkable cities, just hours away on the train. Americans posted statements of support, people around the world tweeted and updated their facebook profile pictures in solidarity with the French, until, of course, the announcement came that amongst the suspected terrorists were those who had perhaps snuck in amongst refugees. Then I watched as the messages of love and compassion and support just as quickly turned to arguments about the risks of allowing refugees in. And my stomach turned again.

Perhaps the main reason I wanted to share my birthday experience on here is that ever since that night in February, I’ve only ever wished I could do something to help these people. And unlike a lot of those whom I see posting about something they have not necessarily seen or experienced firsthand, I have sat there amongst, and completely at the will of hundreds of refugees, admittedly because I could do nothing but sit and wait in a traffic jam. But I had the chance to look in their eyes, and what I saw that night has colored my perception and understanding of this crisis forever afterward. When I was a kid, I was told never to look a strange animal in the eye, that if it was bad or dangerous or sick, it could perceive my gaze as a threat and might attack or become more defensive and aggressive. I do not mean to liken the refugees to animals in any way, but these people were strangers to me, and if I’d let them, they could have looked very scary, and for awhile I didn’t feel like I could look at their faces. Many were in hooded sweatshirts, their clothes were not clean, they did not all look fit and well, some wore full facemasks to protect them from the cold. It made me question whether it was safe to look them in the eye, whether I should avert my gaze. But once I had taken a few minutes to settle down and accept that we weren’t going anywhere, I was able to look up, and see more clearly; my eyes met those of several of these men and boys as they passed by my window, or looked in long enough to see we couldn’t be their means of escaping the Jungle, and every time I only found honesty looking back at me, sometimes with a nod. And eventually, as I came to watch and understand, and recognize their cause a bit more, I stopped feeling so afraid. I just wished I could do something to help.

I confessed earlier that my heart raced at first when I saw the refugees coming in the direction of our car; I did feel afraid. But mine was a fear of what I didn’t understand, what I didn’t have control over. Who were these people? Why were they trying to climb onto lorries? Would they try to get into our car? Could they hurt us? What were they going to do? I held Andrew’s hand tightly. I could not guess what their actions would be, and that was uncomfortable.

When our societies and countries are faced with something uncertain, our hearts will race, like mine did. We’ll be nervous, we’ll be unsure, we won’t know what the right thing to do is, because we will be scared of what could happen if things go wrong. It is uncomfortable. But I urge you all to consider looking into the eyes of just a single one of these victims - because that is what history will show these refugees to be – and I would imagine that, like me, what you will find looking back is a reflection of yourself. The reality is that the majority of these refugees will prove/have proven already to be innocent people, just like us. But, unlike us, they have had to flee their homes in desperation because of unimaginable violence and terror. They are survivors with nowhere to go; but how can we even say or celebrate that they have survived without giving them hope for a new life? I saw someone post on facebook recently, something like, ‘Why do we need to risk our national security? I don’t get it! Why can’t we all just send them food and blankets to keep them warm? That’s seriously more than enough.’ It took everything in my power not to comment, to scroll on by in hope of finding a cheerier post about another friend’s newborn baby. A blanket and food are something, but no, they are not enough. You should all feel how cold it is tonight. I can not imagine what tonight is like for so many of these people. The reality is that there are not enough blankets in the world to keep them warm on a night like tonight, when – if they’re lucky – they are only sleeping in tents. Now is the time for compassion, when these people, at their most vulnerable, are in need of support. Otherwise, whose side do you think this generation of refugee children will take as they grow up, if we are the ones who turned them away, or sent them back, or left them to ‘live’ in appalling conditions when they reached out to us in their greatest hour of need? We can only lead by example. Back when the world was coming ‘round, and that haunting picture of the dead three-year-old Syrian boy, Aylan Kurdi, was all over the news, discussion of the refugee crisis reached Yorkshire. After months of reading and feeling at odds with news stories in which the refugees at Calais were regarded primarily as a nuisance, particularly over the summer months as their frequent attempts to jump onto trains made travel difficult at best for those English and French holidaymakers trying to cross the Channel, the tone finally changed. I will never forget reading the headline that York Minster had announced it would accept and house refugees, that people throughout the UK were being urged to consider opening their homes if they had spare bedrooms to offer. Other cathedrals made similar announcement soon after. There were inspiring interviews with families who were answering the call. There was hope…

When the news broke over the weekend that a passport was found beside what was left of the body of one of the suicide bombers, linking them to a refugee crossing through Greece, Americans – many acquaintances of mine, even – immediately cried out via social media for the closure of our borders, the protection of our people from these foreign enemies. And there went the tone again. Now many US governors are making distasteful and misinformed statements about the security threat ‘these people’ pose. But what they are forgetting is that this time we know much more, and there are many of us who are not so ready to forget those images of Aylan and his brother Galip on that Turkish beach. So there is discord. The French, meanwhile, still reeling from Friday’s attacks, called for an increase in the number of refugees they will accept, albeit only via the tightening of security and resettlement measures, which are obviously proving too weak and inconsistent at present.


Our world must accept that we are as enlightened as we are desensitized by violence. Yes, I agree, videos of devastation, of victims being dragged through the streets, and pregnant women dangling from windowsills and crying for help must horrify us, but I also believe that they should not terrify us so much that we are thrown off course, to the point that we then make the cruel decision not to save legitimate refugees who are fleeing from their own horrors of a similar nature. Instead, we need to do all that we can to put a secure and rigorous system of checks, and follow up support, and assimilation assistance in place to help those whom we are able to welcome in, and be sure that we are giving as many as we can, anything we can, no matter how little, to help them live again. It is up to all of us to make sure that this evil will not win. I know all this because we saw them, looked in their eyes, and saw they needed help.
The last pic I took on the road before we took the wrong turn before the Channel Tunnel